How to make a traditional tiramisu with espresso that isn’t sh*t

 

How to make a traditional tiramisu with espresso that isn’t sh*t

We asked someone’s actual Italian grandmother for her tiramisu recipe. Her name was Valentina and she didn’t understand a word of English

 
 
 
 
 

After we got a decent translator, we did exactly what Valentina told us to do. Then we did it again… except with a ‘way better’ espresso recipe. It was amazing.

 

Here’s what she told us (including a heavily revised espresso recipe) …

 

Ingredients
24 Savoiardi biscuits or ladyfingers
7 Shots of ‘strong’ espresso
Dutch processed cocoa powder

(Ignore the irony of ‘Dutch’ cocoa in a traditional Italian recipe)

 

For the cream:
2 1/2 cups mascarpone
1/3 cup heavy cream
5 large eggs, separated
1 teaspoon of vanilla extract
1/2 cup granulated sugar

Notably, our Italian nonna scoffed at the idea of booze in tiramisu. So, If you want to upset Valentina… add 2 Tablespoons of dark rum

 
 
 
 

Making the Cream

Combine mascarpone, cream, egg yolks, vanilla extract, and sugar (and rum if you’re a complete philistine) in the a bowl and go to town with a handheld whisk. Alternatively, and less traditionally, you can use a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment at a medium pace. Whisk until the mixture forms soft peaks. Aim for a consistency that leaves a smooth trail when you trace through it with your finger.

 

In a different bowl, beat the egg whites until they form soft, yet firm peaks, not unlike the snow-capped mountains of the Dolomites. Gently fold about one-third of the whipped egg whites into the mascarpone mixture using a wooden spoon that has been in your family for 10 generations, mixing until its almost integrated. Continue adding and folding in the remaining egg whites in two more batches until fully integrated.

 
 
 
 

Making The Espresso

Now, prepare a fresh, strong batch of espresso. Traditionally, this recipe calls for Italian coffee roasted darker than David Lynch’s thoughts. So, the trick is to ‘slightly’ over-extract a more sensibly roasted coffee here, sacrificing sweetness and adding some extra bitterness that will balance better against the sweetness of the cream and sugar. Try to choose a coffee with some ‘chocolatey’ character, like our Destroyer blend. For a double basket, dose 19 grams of coffee into your portafilter and extract 46 grams of liquid espresso over 32 seconds. Sip the coffee. It should taste pleasantly bitter without coating your mouth with too much astringency (that dry and dusty feeling on your tongue). If it does, try reducing the espresso weight to 44 grams over 31 seconds. If it’s not bitter enough, go up to 48 grams over 33 seconds. Pull 7 shots in total (3 doubles and 1 single).

 

Putting It Together

To assemble this bad-boy, begin by spreading a thin layer of the mascarpone cream on the bottom of your dish or dishes. Dip the biscuits in your espresso, aiming for them to be well-soaked without falling apart, and place them at the base of your dish. Continue this process with enough biscuits to form a complete layer, then generously cover with the mascarpone cream mixture. Repeat these steps to create additional layers until all components have been utilised. Refrigerate the finished product overnight, before serving with a serious dusting of cocoa powder. Pinch your fingers together and proceed to shake your hand passionately over the delicious result.

 
Henry Brink